Greymouth. Direct beach access from the camp site. The lady at reception tries to direct me to a “quiet site” on the side. What do you mean by “quiet”? No neighbors? No, what she means is “no ocean”. But this is entirely wrong advice – what would be a better sound than ocean waves crushing in?

And so it happens , I have the world’s best lullaby, which continues until morning, when it is complemented by birds singing fiercely. I like.

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